Let’s Talk Power—and Why It Fits in Your Space
Here’s the thing about this electric blow heater: it’s built to pack a serious punch into a small footprint. We’re talking 2500W on a 400V supply, pushing current through a short, 300mm quartz tube. That means the heat goes right where you need it—no wandering, no waste. And that voltage choice? It keeps the amperage lower on the line. So your wiring and contacts take less stress. The trade-off is you need a control panel rated for 400V, but that’s just part of getting the job done cleanly. The 300mm length isn’t random, either. It matches the heating zone of typical PET blow molding heads, so you get a tight, even thermal profile without extra space hanging around.
Built to Take the Heat (and the Grime)
Inside that quartz tube, the halogen element runs hot—on purpose. The integrated coating helps manage the output spectrum and shields the element from contamination. In other words, it’s designed to survive the dust and oil mist that’s just part of life on a blow molding floor. No early burnouts. Just steady performance. The R7s base locks in with a solid, two-point connection, so the lamp seats square and transfers heat evenly—no hot spots at the ends. And when you need to swap it out fast, some variants come with Sk15 terminal blocks. No wrestling with screw terminals in tight bays. You just wire it up and get back to work.
On the Floor: PET Blow Molding, Done Right
In PET blow molding, the preform has to heat quickly and evenly. This heater puts the heat exactly where the preform sees it, so cycle times drop and scrap from uneven stretch goes down. The high-density output delivers that rapid temperature rise. But with that kind of power, your machine’s cooling and airflow need to be up to speed. If air movement isn’t there, the control electronics will start seeing ambient drift. Install it as a drop-in replacement and you get consistent performance from lamp to lamp—so the line keeps moving the way it should.